Weekends here

River, ranges & the coast

Palmerston North Guide · Chapter 9 of 9

The gift of a flat city in the middle of an island: mountains twenty-five minutes one way, coast half an hour the other, a river through the middle, and half the North Island inside a three-hour drive.

The river, from your door

The Manawatū runs along the southern edge of the city, and the path network along it is the thing residents use most. He Ara Kotahi — the shared path and its bridge — links the city to the south bank, the university and a long, flat, scenic loop that works equally well for a run, a ride or a pram.

Next to it, the Victoria Esplanade: riverside gardens, a rose collection, an aviary, a playground and a miniature railway. Unfashionable and entirely lovely, and if you arrive with children it will become a fixture within a fortnight.

Mountains one way, coast the other

Driving times from the city, to scale against each other. The two marked rows are the chapter’s whole argument: ranges twenty-five minutes east, wild coast half an hour west, and a flat city in between.

Indicative driving times. Wellington sits under two hours south — close enough for a concert, far enough that nobody commutes.

The ranges

Te Āpiti / Manawatū Gorge
Twenty-five minutes east. Walking tracks through native bush along the gorge, a ridgeline route, and a lookout among the wind turbines. The region’s signature day out.
The Tararua Range
Serious tramping country right on the doorstep — huts, tops and weather that demands respect. Some of the best training ground in the country.
The Ruahine & Rangiwāhia
North-east of the city, with the Rangiwāhia Track and its swing bridge — a beautiful half-day into bush and open tops.
Arapuke Forest Park
Purpose-built mountain biking in pine and native forest fifteen minutes from town, with trails for every level.
The Sledge Track
A short, popular bush walk with swing bridges near Ashhurst. The go-to when you have an hour and a half.
Snow, occasionally
The tops get a proper covering in winter. Ruapehu and its ski fields are two and a half hours north.

The coast

Half an hour west and you are in a different landscape: thirty kilometres of dunes, marram grass, driftwood and black sand, with the Tasman rolling in. Himatangi Beach, Foxton Beach and the mouths of the rivers are wild rather than pretty — big skies, long horizons and very few people.

Neethu and her husband on a sunny coastal path lined with flax
Neethu and her husband out for the day. Neethu was placed by Ethicare as an anaesthetic technician at a hospital in Palmerston North.

It is not a swimming-beach culture in the way the Bay of Plenty is; the surf is heavy and the water is cooler. What it is instead is dramatic, and empty, and twenty minutes closer than most people expect.

Marram grass on the dunes above a wide, empty beach
The Manawatū coast, half an hour west
A carved pouwhenua standing against the sky
Carving and story across the rohe of Rangitāne
A family in winter coats and hats standing on wet tarmac at a ski area, snow-covered peaks behind them
Whakapapa, on Mount Ruapehu — about two and a half hours from Palmerston North, and an ordinary winter weekend for one of the families we placed.

Further afield

Wellington — 1 hr 50
The capital for galleries, touring acts, restaurants and the ferry south. Easy for a day or a night.
The Wairarapa — ~2 hr
Over or around the ranges to Martinborough’s wineries and Greytown’s main street.
Whanganui — 1 hr 15
A river city with a real arts scene and some of the finest heritage architecture in the country.
Taupō & Ruapehu — 2 hr 30
The lake, the volcanoes, the Tongariro crossing and the ski fields.
Hawke’s Bay — 2 hr 30
Wine, art deco and warmth, over the ranges to the north-east.
Taranaki — 2 hr 30
A near-perfect volcano, surf coast and New Plymouth’s coastal walkway.

Useful links

That’s the guide

Nine chapters on Palmerston North. Everything national — visas, registration, tax, renting, driving, schools, te ao Māori — lives in Moving to New Zealand. When you’re ready to look at roles, see what’s open now.

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