Weekends here

Surf, forest & the Cape

Gisborne Guide · Chapter 9 of 9

Gisborne’s compensation for being far from everything is that what it has, it has almost to itself. Surf ten minutes from the hospital, native forest inland, and one of the great road trips in New Zealand starting at the edge of town.

Alone with it, in driving time

Driving times from the city, to scale against each other. The marked row is the reason a meaningful number of clinicians move here at all: surf inside twenty minutes, and uncrowded.

Beyond the chart sit the region’s two great expeditions: Te Urewera and Lake Waikaremoana to the west, and State Highway 35 right around the Cape — expeditions, not day trips.

The surf

This is the main event. Wainui, Makorori and the beaches north of the city catch swell from the whole eastern Pacific, and they are consistent, varied and — the part people cannot quite believe — uncrowded. Ten to twenty minutes from your front door.

Add Māhia to the south for longer point breaks, and the city beaches at Waikanae and Midway for a swim after work. There are surf schools, boardriders clubs and a strong local culture around it. A meaningful number of the clinicians who move here do so because of this paragraph.

Inland

Rere Falls & the rockslide
Fifty minutes inland — a wide waterfall and a sixty-metre natural rock slide into a pool. A regional institution, and exactly as good as it sounds.
Eastwoodhill Arboretum
The national arboretum, an hour from the city — one of the largest collections of northern hemisphere trees in the southern hemisphere. Extraordinary in autumn.
Te Urewera
West into one of the largest tracts of native forest in the North Island, with Lake Waikaremoana and its Great Walk. Deeply significant country, and remote.
The Raukūmara Range
North-west, wild and little-visited. Serious tramping for people who want solitude.
Hackfalls & the hill country
Farm parks, arboreta and river valleys through the back country. Slow driving, and worth it.
Mountain biking
Trails in the pine forests close to the city, plus the coastal and river paths for easier riding.

In and around the city

Titirangi / Kaiti Hill
The hill above the harbour, with the view over Poverty Bay and a significant pā site. The after-work walk.
The rivers
Three of them meeting in the city, with walkways, rowing and swimming holes along them.
Tūranga and the museum
Tairāwhiti Museum tells the region’s story — waka landings, Cook’s arrival, and the layered history since. Worth going early.
First light
People gather for sunrise here, particularly on New Year’s Day and at the solstice. It is the region’s signature.

The East Cape road

State Highway 35 runs from Gisborne north around the Cape to Ōpōtiki — around three hundred and thirty kilometres of coast road through Tolaga Bay, Tokomaru Bay, Ruatōria, Te Araroa and Hicks Bay. It is one of the great New Zealand drives and unlike anywhere else in the country: small, strongly Māori communities, empty beaches, wharves, marae and the East Cape lighthouse at the very edge of the map.

It is also the part of the region most affected by Gabrielle, and some of it is still being rebuilt. Go slowly, check the road, buy your petrol and your lunch locally, and treat the places you pass through as communities rather than scenery.

Further afield

Māhia — 1 hr 45
Beaches, point breaks and the rocket launch site on the peninsula.
Lake Waikaremoana — ~2 hr 30
A Great Walk around one of the country’s most beautiful lakes, in Te Urewera.
Bay of Plenty — 2 hr 30
Whakatāne and the eastern bay over the Waioeka Gorge.
Hawke’s Bay — 4 hr
Napier, Hastings, the wineries and a change of pace. See the Hawke’s Bay guide.

Useful links

That’s the guide

Nine chapters on Gisborne and Tairāwhiti. Everything national — visas, registration, tax, renting, driving, schools, te ao Māori — lives in Moving to New Zealand. This region suits a particular kind of clinician extraordinarily well. If that sounds like you, see what’s open now.

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