The everyday

Food, shopping & the everyday

Christchurch Guide · Chapter 8 of 9

Christchurch will not out-cook Auckland or out-coffee Wellington, and locals know it. What it has instead is a rebuilt centre that finally works, the best raw ingredients in the country on its doorstep, and weekend markets that are local institutions.

Where to eat

Riverside Market
The heart of the rebuilt centre — a covered market hall of produce stalls, butchers, fishmongers and two floors of small kitchens. The single best answer to "where should we go?" for anyone visiting.
New Regent Street
A pastel-coloured pedestrian street of 1930s Spanish Mission shopfronts, restored after the earthquakes. Small bars, cafés and the tram rattling through the middle of it.
The Terrace
Riverside dining along the Ōtākaro Avon — the closest Christchurch gets to a European promenade, and where the city goes on a warm evening.
Riccarton Road
A solid kilometre of Korean, Chinese, Japanese, Malaysian and Vietnamese restaurants and grocers. The best-value eating in the city by a distance.
Lyttelton
Through the tunnel — a handful of very good small restaurants and bars in the port town, with a Saturday farmers’ market that is worth the drive on its own.
Sumner & the beaches
Fish and chips on the sand, decent cafés along the esplanade, and a cinema that has been there forever.

Coffee

Good, and taken seriously, without the competitive intensity of Wellington. Flat whites are the default and every suburb has at least one café that roasts its own. Expect to pay NZ$5.50 to $6.50, and expect it to be better than almost anywhere you have come from.

If you are new to ordering here: a flat white is espresso with steamed milk and minimal foam; a long black is espresso over hot water; and asking for a "regular coffee" will get you a puzzled look.

Supermarkets, and the food you grew up with

New Zealand supermarkets fall into a few groups, and knowing the difference saves real money.

ChainWhat it is for
Pak’nSaveCheapest of the big chains. Warehouse format, bring your own bags, bulk buying.
WoolworthsMid-range and everywhere, with the best online ordering and delivery.
New WorldMore upmarket, better fresh and specialty range, slightly higher prices.
Four Square & FreshChoiceSmall neighbourhood shops for top-ups.
Costco, NorthwoodBulk buying if you have the storage and a membership.
A taste of home
  • South Asian & halal — Riccarton and the central city have halal butchers and Indian, Pakistani and Sri Lankan grocers. Many supermarket lines are halal-certified; check the label.
  • East & South-East Asian — Riccarton Road is the hub, with Chinese, Korean, Japanese and Filipino supermarkets carrying everything the big chains do not.
  • British, Irish & European — the larger supermarkets stock most familiar brands, and specialty importers fill the gaps. You will pay a premium for nostalgia.
  • African & Middle Eastern — a smaller but growing set of grocers, mostly in the central and western suburbs.

Markets

Weekend markets are part of everyday local life here. The Riccarton Rotary market on a Sunday is the biggest; the Lyttelton farmers’ market on a Saturday is the best for produce and the nicest to spend a morning at. Both are institutions, and both are how a lot of newcomers first meet people.

Shopping

The rebuilt centre
The central retail precinct and the laneways around it — independents, homeware, books and the market. Walkable and pleasant, if smaller than a city this size would normally have.
Westfield Riccarton
The largest mall, close to the centre and the hospital, with the full range of chains and a cinema.
Northlands, The Palms & Hornby
Suburban malls serving the north, east and south-west. Practical rather than exciting.
Furnishing a house
Trade Me for second-hand, which is entirely normal here and carries no stigma. The big chains for new. Budget two to four weeks for delivery on anything sizeable.

Single-use plastic bags are banned nationwide — keep reusable bags in the car.

If you remember three things
  • Riverside Market first, Riccarton Road for the best value and variety, Lyttelton for a Saturday.
  • Pak’nSave for the main shop — and the Canterbury Plains mean local produce and meat are good.
  • Almost everything from home is findable. Ask the community groups rather than hunting supermarket shelves.

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