Kiwifruit country

Food, shopping & the everyday

Bay of Plenty Guide · Chapter 8 of 9

Cook named this coast for the productivity of its gardens, and three centuries on that is still the defining fact of everyday life here. You will eat well, seasonally, and much closer to the source than you are probably used to.

What grows here

Around eighty per cent of New Zealand’s kiwifruit comes out of this region, most of it within half an hour of Te Puke. Avocados too, along with citrus, feijoas, berries, sweetcorn and a great deal else. The practical consequence is roadside stalls: unstaffed wooden boxes at the end of orchard driveways with an honesty tin, selling whatever was picked that morning for a few dollars.

The farmers’ markets are the weekend fixture — Tauranga’s on Saturday morning, the Mount’s on Sunday, and smaller ones at Katikati and Te Puke. They are good, not tourist-facing, and half the region seems to be there.

Then there is the sea. Snapper, kahawai and trevally off this coast, mussels and pipi on the rocks, and a strong local culture of gathering kai moana. Rules on species, size and quantity are real and enforced, and there is proper tikanga around it — ask before you assume.

Eating out

Mount Maunganui
The best concentration of food in the region — a strip of cafés, bakeries, small restaurants and breweries a block from the ocean beach. Busy in summer, lovely off-season.
The Tauranga waterfront
The city’s food scene has grown up considerably in the last decade. A proper strip of restaurants and bars along the harbour, and a food-hall culture that works well midweek.
Coffee
Take this seriously: New Zealand coffee is excellent and the Bay is no exception. Several local roasters, and a flat white in a suburban café will usually beat the best in most British cities.
Whakatāne & the east
Smaller and simpler, with a couple of good places and a strong café culture along the riverfront.

Groceries and the practical stuff

The main supermarket chains all operate across the region, with large stores in Tauranga, at the Mount, in Pāpāmoa and in Whakatāne. Food in New Zealand is expensive by British or Australian standards — that is a national fact rather than a regional one, and it is the adjustment people mention most.

For specialist ingredients: Tauranga has Asian and Indian grocers, a reasonable range of halal and kosher options, and specialist butchers and delis. It is not Auckland. If a particular cuisine’s ingredients are central to how your family eats, it is worth checking what is available before you commit — the national chapter Finding your feet & your people covers where to look and which communities are established here.

“We had a lovely life in Harrogate, so moving to New Zealand wasn’t about wanting to get away from somewhere we didn’t like. But Tauranga has given us a completely different lifestyle. Being so close to the beach is probably the biggest change — we can finish work and go for a walk along the beach or have dinner outside, and at the weekends there is so much to do. I do miss things about home though. Friends and family obviously, but also silly things like the supermarkets! Food is definitely more expensive here and the supermarkets aren’t as good as the ones in the UK. There are some brilliant farmers’ markets and cafés, and the coffee is amazing, but I still really miss Marks & Spencer and Waitrose!”
Emma, Radiation Therapist — moved from Harrogate to Tauranga with her family

The rhythm of the week

Shops close early
Not London hours. Most retail winds down by 5.30 or 6pm, supermarkets run later, and Sunday trading is quieter than you’ll be used to.
Everything happens outside
Barbecues, beach evenings, sport, the park. Social life here is largely outdoors and largely informal, which is easy to join and takes a little adjusting to.
Sport is the social glue
Club rugby, netball, surf lifesaving, touch, sailing, running groups. Joining one is the single fastest way to know people in a new town.
Summer changes the timetable
Between Christmas and late January the region is on holiday. Book restaurants, shop early, and expect the beach to be shared.
Limitations
  • Retail is good for the size but not deep — big shopping trips mean Auckland, or online.
  • Touring music, theatre and major exhibitions mostly stop at Auckland, Hamilton or Wellington. It is a road trip, not a walk.
  • Very specific imported groceries can be hard to find. Most people end up with one Auckland order a few times a year.

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